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gardenART on King St
44 King Street
Onancock, Virginia 23417
Phone
757-787-8818
Fax
757-787-9311
Email
info@gardenartonking.com
~ Hours ~
Tuesday through Saturday 10:00 a.m. – 5:30 p.m.
Sunday 12:00 noon - 4:00 p.m.
~ Winter Hours ~
January to Mid-March
Wednesday through Saturday
11:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.
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In The Garden
January In Your Garden
January is here along with the snow, ice and cold temperatures associated with winter. It is time for us to curl up in front of a roaring fire with a hot beverage and concentrate on some enjoyable inside activities.
AFTER CHRISTMAS
- Use discarded holiday greens and boughs to cover tender plants in the garden. Remember to remove them in early spring as the weather warms up.
- Recycle your cut Christmas tree. Check for pick-up dates in your area.
IN THE GREENHOUSE
- Look what's blooming in greenhouse’s this month: Gloxinia, Azaleas, Begonias, Primrose Obconica. They will bring a splash of needed color to your home.
- Bring the cheery color and fragrance of paperwhite narcissus into your home. There is still time to force bulbs this season.
- Don't forget your houseplants on long winter days. Wipe off the dust and continue to inspect regularly for signs of insects. Visit us (or email) for professional advice on a problem, to consult on a new plant or just to stroll through the flowers!
- Are the holiday poinsettias looking a bit peaked? It may be time to replace them with a lovely orchid plant. gardenART often offers an Orchid Fiesta in February. This is a great time to repot orchids also. Look to our calendar for upcoming events.
- To maintain healthy indoor plants in winter, feed monthly at 1/2 strength, rotate to ensure adequate and even light and use a moisture meter to monitor watering needs.
- Use ‘Neptune’s Harvest’ Fish Emulsion to water your houseplants (1oz per gallon). This helps to temper the damaging effects of salt buildup in potted plants.
AROUND THE GARDEN
- Now is a good time to prune fruit, shade and ornamental trees.
- Go outside on warmer days to pick up fallen branches, trim up perennials and just putter around the garden. Keep an eye out for new beds, sitting areas and focal points to design for the spring.
DON'T FORGET
THE BIRDS
Remember our feathered friends...birds need water and food throughout the cold winter months. Add some suet to the birds diet so they get adequate fatty treats in the cold winter months.
Keep the water in your bird bath from freezing with the addition of a pond/bird bath de- icer.
TAKE CARE
Use plant friendly materials to melt ice on walks or driveways. Urea (46.0.0), Magnesium Chloride, Calcium Nitrate, Calcium Chloride and sand are all safe to apply near lawns and plants.
Snow removal from shrubs should be done with care using an upward motion. If a heavy layer of ice forms, leave it to thaw naturally. Severe damage and breakage can occur while attempting to remove built up ice.
Snowed in for the weekend? Pull out all of those seed catalogues and gardening magazines and start planning your Spring 2010 garden.
Febuary In Your Garden
It's a great time to start planning your garden for the upcoming
spring and summer. But it's best to hold off on most outdoor gardening tasks until the danger of cold weather is farther off.
IN YOUR GARDEN
If you'd like to start vegetables or flowers from seed, buy the seed now. Different flowers and vegetables vary widely in their requirements. Some seeds need to be started inside several months early, while others do better if planted directly into the ground. In general, you will need a good source of light to grow plants inside, such as a really sunny windowsill, or grow lights. Here are some tips for starting plants from seed:
- Read the information on the seed packet. Most will tell you whether it's better to start the plants inside or to plant directly into the ground. For example, broccoli, cabbage, tomatoes, peppers and eggplant are best started inside ahead of time. Carrots, beans and radishes do better planted directly into the ground. Likewise, some flowers are easy to start in the garden, while others need a head start.
- Don't start seeds too early. Plants grown inside for a long time tend to get 'leggy' unless you have a really good system of grow lights, so don't start seeds inside any earlier than recommended on the package. The package will probably tell you to sow seeds a certain number of weeks before the last expected frost, or before the ground really warms in spring. The average last frost date in our area varies from around April 15 through about May 10.
- Start seeds inside in a sterile mixture such as vermiculite or a light potting soil or seed starting mix. Don't use garden soil: it's too heavy and may contain diseases that kill off young seedlings. You can plant in seed starting trays or pots (we sell a variety of good ones), old pots that have been cleaned with a mixture of 1 part bleach to 9 parts water, or even egg cartons (one or two seeds per indentation) or milk cartons cut down to pot size.
- Place soil in pots and moisten first. Sprinkle seeds on top, and then cover seeds to the depth listed on the seed packet. (Some small seeds shouldn't be covered at all, just lightly pressed into the soil. Put a plastic cover or plastic wrap over the trays to help keep them moist.)
- When seedlings start to come up, remove plastic cover and place in good light - either a very sunny window sill or grow lights.
- Continue to water gently so that plants never dry out completely, but are not soggy either. When the second set of true leaves grows, start fertilizing with a mild liquid fertilizer, such as fish emulsion or Miracle Gro.
- When plants are ready to be planted out, and the ground and outdoor temperatures have warmed enough to receive them, accustom them to being outside before you actually plant them in the ground. This process is called 'hardening off'. You can do this by putting them outside in a somewhat shady, protected area, for a few hours the first day, then for longer periods over the course of a week, until they're used to being outside.
- When you plant them, minimize transplant shock by using a liquid plant starter formula.
March In Your Garden
- As the weather begins to warm up, you may feel the urge to get out into the garden. Knowing what not to do at this time of year is about as important as knowing what you can or should do. For example, winter and spring rains can leave parts--maybe all--of your garden pretty soggy. Resist the urge to walk on or dig up planting beds when they're wet! Each footstep compacts the soil and makes drainage worse. Before digging, try this test: grab a handful of soil and firm it into a ball. Then drop it. If it stays in a ball, the soil is too wet to work. If it crumbles or breaks apart, go ahead and start digging.
- As you begin to prepare beds for planting, work plenty of organic matter into your soil. Plants growing in healthy, well cultivated soil need less fertilizer and are better able to deal with disease and insects. In our clay soil, adding organic matter creates structure, increases air space, and helps soil retain moisture in dry weather and drain better in soggy weather. Organic matter includes homemade compost, composted cow manure, leaf humus or pine bark fines.
- Now's a good time to clean up your yard--remove downed twigs and branches, and rake up any leaves left on the lawn or caught in ground cover or on flower beds. Cut back ratty looking foliage on perennials that haven't gone completely dormant. Cut back ornamental grasses, including liriope, to several inches above the ground.
LAWNS
- Lime your lawn if it needs it. Garden lime lowers the acidity of the soil. If your soil is too acid, it won't be able to use fertilizer as well. If you're not sure whether you should lime, bring us a quart-sized jar of soil. We'll test it for you and let you know whether you need to add lime, and if so, how much lime to apply.
- Fall is the best time to seed lawns, but if you have thin or bare spots that won't wait until then, March is the next best time. After that, it will be getting too warm for the grass to germinate and get well established before the heat of summer sets in. Be sure to get a grass seed mixture custom blended to do well in your area and for your light requirements.
- When choosing grass seed, the two most important things to consider are the amount of sun the area gets and the amount of foot traffic. Full sun to part shade equals 4-5 or more hours of sun per day, a blend of turf-type tall fescue is best. In part shade to dense shade, choose a Shady Mixture, a blend of fine bladed fescues.
- Avoid the rush-- get lawnmower maintenance done early, before you need to start mowing the lawn. Buy fuel for your lawnmower and get the blades sharpened. Dull mower blades damage grass blades and leave your lawn more susceptible to disease.
- Pre-emergent weedkillers get to weeds before they have a chance to germinate. If you've had problems with crabgrass or other weeds such as clover and dandelions in the past, apply an organic pre-emergent such as Concern CornGluten when the forsythia are dropping their blooms. We'll be happy to provide you with more specific recommendations, depending on the type of weed you need to control.
SHRUBS AND TREES
- Prune to remove any broken tree or shrub branches. Don't worry about sap bleeding from pruning cuts on elm, maple, dogwood, beech, walnut, birch and redbud. This bleeding won't hurt the tree.
- Remove bagworm bags now--they contain hundreds of eggs that will hatch soon. Destroy or throw away the bags--don't just knock them down and leave them on the ground.
- Hemlocks with little white cottony masses on them are infested with wooly adelgid, a sucking insect that can decimate the tree. Spray the tree thoroughly with Horticultural Oil Spray to suffocate them. Pick a day when the temperature will stay above freezing for 24 hours after you spray.
- Late this month, prune shrubs that bloom on new wood, such as buddleias, PG hydrangeas, spireas and caryopteris. These are generally plants that bloom in summer, but please ask us if you're not sure about a specific shrub.
- Prune back forsythias after they finish blooming, cutting off 1/3 of the old canes at the ground.
- Prune crape myrtles toward the end of month.
- As long as the ground isn't too soggy--or frozen-- March is a great time to plant shrubs and trees. Planting in early spring gives the plants a chance to get their roots established before the summer heat kicks in.
ANNUALS AND PERENNIALS
- Watch carefully for signs of life in your perennial beds, and remember that each plant has its own timetable--some never disappear, especially in relatively mild winters; some are early to come up; and some may not show signs of life until April or even early May. In your rush to get some early color into the garden or to prepare beds for spring planting, be careful not to dig up a plant that simply hasn't woken up yet.
- Spring bulbs are emerging. If the weather turns cold (or even snowy) again, new foliage may be burned by very cold temperatures, but flowers should be OK.
- If you're a new homeowner (or somehow, you didn't get around to labeling all your bulbs when you planted them) now's a good time to map out or label those bulbs. Take inventory of what's blooming when, and make notes of spring flowering bulbs you'd like to add and where. You may think you'll remember this in the fall when it's time to choose and plant bulbs, but trust us, you won't.
- Snowdrops spread fairly quickly on their own, but if you want to speed the process or move some to another part of your garden, you can divide them after the flowers have faded, while the leaves are still green. Gently dig up a clump, and even more gently separate the offshoots from the main bulb. Replant them 3-4 inches deep and 2-3 inches apart in well- draining soil. Top dress with BulbTone fertilizer or Holland Bulb Booster Fertilizer to speed them on their way.
- When your daffodils finish blooming, cut back the flower stems, but not the leaves. Don't tie them up in bundles, either! Let them mature naturally--they're storing energy for next year.
- If you need a splash of color this month in your pots or flower beds, pansies and violas, primroses and ranunculus are your best bets for early spring color. All thrive in cool weather, petering out by May or early June when the weather heats up.
IN YOUR HOME
On warm days (above 55 degrees), you can take your plants out for a little fresh air, avoid direct sun, and bring them in at night for now. If they're battling aphids or other insects, it's easier to wash them off outside and spray with Safer's Soap or a mild houseplant insect killer. A warm day is also a good time to give them a shower. If you haven't dusted your plants all winter, this is a good way to get some of the dust off so they can use available light better as they resume active growth.
Begin fertilizing houseplants again as you see signs of new growth. Use a balanced houseplant fertilizer and follow label directions. If you don't want to worry about regular feedings, try Osmocote time released fertilizer. One application per season is all you need.
Bring spring inside for those inevitable dreary days by forcing cut branches of flowering trees and shrubs. Try crabapple, forsythia, quince, pussy willow, cherry, peach, plum or witch hazel. Simply prune branches clearly showing buds and place in a vase with water.
VEGETABLES
Vegetables - like most people - can be divided into two categories: those that like cool weather and those that like heat. Plant cool weather vegetables such as mustard greens, spinach, lettuce, and peas this month and next. Seed these directly into the garden as soon as the ground can be worked, or -- for a head start -- plant seedlings. Broccoli, cabbage, brussel sprouts and cauliflower are best started early in the protected environment of a greenhouse or inside under grow lights and transplanted out in late March or April.
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